Avavav, an independent fashion house directed by internet personality Beate Karlsson, showed for the second time during Milan Fashion Week. This street-wear collection was titled “No Time to Design, No Time to Explain” and featured a multitude of looks that humorously highlighted annoying aspects of the fashion design process. The second look of the show was a black tee shirt with the words “Add back?” seemingly handwritten on it. There were numerous “notes to the designer” written on the clothes, and the models ran on and off of the runway as if in a rush. This collection was undoubtedly a commentary on how often designers are expected to create, how every collection must out-compete their last, and the stress and anxiety around it.
When thinking of Avavav, you have to think of all their collections. Last fall was most certainly a take on fast fashion and the decline of quality in clothes. It included shoes and garments breaking as the model walked down the runway, as well as models simply just falling (a humorous recall to when couture models tumble on the most elegant of runways). My favorite part of this show was at the end when Karlsson walked out and the whole set fell apart. One thing about Avavav is that they’re going to get their point across, and the irony will never be lost. Yes, they’re showing off the clothes, but truly each runway is a show above anything else.
You can’t talk about the Avavav runway without talking about the current fixation on gimmicks in the fashion industry. They’ve been sprinkled all over runways in increasing numbers for the past few years. Some of notoriety are Bella Hadid’s dress being spray painted on her at Coperni’s show last year, the Heliot Emil model walking the runway literally lit on fire, (Di)Vision’s tablecloth dress that was all over social media, and of course, Avavav. The reason these stunts are controversial is because there is this idea rooted in society that high fashion needs to be luxurious, professional, and elegant. The so-called “gimmicks” take away from that. Gimmicks can come across as sloppy and offensive to those who venerate the fashion industry but we would all do well to remember that there are no rules in fashion. This is not to say that all “gimmicks” are evil. They turn heads and have been responsible for a lot of smaller brands getting in the public eye. They can also be used to make political statements, like Avavav’s this season.
Just like all industries, fashion is changing. With everything being digital and social media-focused today, of course, brands are trying out techniques to make themselves viral. Why would they not? Sophisticated is not as honored in the world as it was a hundred or so years ago when the most respected fashion houses were starting. It can be hard to accept change, especially when we adore the traditional so much, but it’s happening anyway. Us fashion fanatics can either welcome these gimmicks with open arms or bristle at every runway. Either way: they’re here to stay and I can’t wait to see what Avavav does next.
Words by Alix Russell-Mann.
Graphic by Punasa (Bee) Sihsobhon.