Once upon a fashion week dreary, while I pondered weak and weary, Thom Browne came tapping at the Shed. In the days preceding the F/W 2024 show, hints of a snowy footprint or an ominously lit window graced the brand’s Instagram. The reveal that Thom Browne’s collection was inspired by Edgar Allan Poe’s poem “The Raven” could not have been more enticing to me. As a lover of the unnecessarily dramatic, intense longing, and the Gilmore Girls episode “A Tale of Poes and Fire,” this NYFW closer was right up my alley.
I am currently in a Thom Browne immersion. While my artistic tastes previously leant feminine and whimsical, a switch flipped over the past year, and I’m pretty confident I can trace it back to Thom Browne’s 2023 MET Gala domination. Also Bella Ramsey wearing said Thom Browne. Browne is the designer that ignited my interest in tailoring, and recently I feel it’s safe to say he’s on a hot streak. He has always been known for packing a punch with storytelling in his collections, and his latest is, in my opinion, his best yet.
The show opened on a literal tree person wearing a giant puffer coat, from which flocks of children in baby Thom Browne uniforms emerged. From there, stunning silhouette after silhouette walked the runway, paying homage to the titular birds and Poe’s imagery. From the side, several looks appeared as if the model was poised and ready for flight with the intense curvature of the torso. Pannier like structures at the hips suggested wings and black pleats suggested the layering of feathers.
Perhaps my favorite element was the auditory experience. Bookending the show were scores that felt straight out of an old Hollywood film. It felt as if I were about to actually watch a film, adding to the theatrical element and reminding the audience that this is, in fact, a performance. Carrie Coon’s narration of “The Raven” soundtracked the show, truly elevating the experience. As the models transitioned from look to look, the story in the poem played out, adding truly beautiful elements of pacing.
While the silhouettes, textiles, and clean finishes were all well and gorgeous, the extreme attention to detail is what makes Thom Browne stand out as a designer. Everything from the set design, audio design, hair, makeup, and accessories related to the theme. The snow on the ground and the wooden fence posts transported me to New England in the nineteenth century. I loved the netted headwear, funky hairstyles, and raven emblems on the coats. A personal favorite of mine was the gold raven-headed umbrella a la Kaz Brekker. Even the nails resembled raven talons. One element that I did miss however, was any nod to the bust of Pallas Athena, which is repeatedly mentioned in the poem.
While Thom Browne has typically been a solid American staple, I’m truly excited for his brand to fly to new heights. The elevated production of this show is only the beginning, and with some of this generation’s up and coming storytellers representing the brand (Boygenius, Bella Ramsey, Ayo Edebiri, etc.), I’m excited for the future. I can’t wait to see where he goes next and I can only hope his excellence is limitless.
Words and Graphic by Caroline Tetlow.