Under massive gold chandeliers and in front of the Eiffel Tower, Anthony Vaccarello marked his 10th year at Saint Laurent with a spring/summer homage to the opulence of 1980s European style. Not only is it an absolutely breathtaking fashion venue but the clothes themselves so closely resemble the Eiffel Tower’s glittering; I wondered if the monument had been a muse for this collection. However, Anthony did not go into a lot of detail on his inspiration, stating, “This time I’d rather not say too much and let you experience all its shades. With Love, Anthony.”
This collection is reminiscent of several of YSL’s from the mid-80s. Specifically, the red pillbox hats in the fall/winter 1984 show and the airy skirts from fall/winter 1988. Everything from massive 80s prom dress-style bows to the dramatic puffed sleeves and skirts calls back to the decade. The collection is also similar to fall/winter 2025, which was a collection largely made up of boxy oversized coats, blouses, and jackets, in an array of jewel tones and neons as well as warmer, earthier colors that bring to mind the trend transition from the late 70s to the early 80s.
Aside from a few power suits and gowns, every single item in this collection is gold. Most of the pieces are a yellow gold fabric that has a more crinkled texture, though some of them are closer to a bronze or a rose gold. The focus on yellow gold makes sense, considering it is very reminiscent of the 70s and 80s, which is where this collection pulls most of its silhouettes. Pencil skirts with massive slits up the front, to what almost resemble windbreakers, and blazers with heavy padding and dramatic embellishments like contrasting scarves, gold buttons, and fur.
One detail that I personally love from this collection is the inclusion of cheetah print. I appreciated how it ties in the fur elements as well as blending with the rest of the pure gold fabric and driving home that vintage luxe energy of the whole collection. The other source of color is the red and pale green scarves that dance in the wind behind the models. The red and gold together create a feeling of warmth and richness while the powdery green feels both unexpected and elegant.Some of the final looks that were the most over the top weren’t gold but black, and what they lack in sparkle they make up for in volume. There are five gowns seemingly entirely made out of organza; each one is draped in a wholly unique way. Some of them create a puffed silhouette on the top half of the body, while some of them are more elegantly draped and ruched. They create diagonal lines leading down the torso and drawing the eye towards the massive slit each one of these gowns has.
Considering how show-stopping and spectacular this collection is, people are speculating that it’s a farewell collection and Vaccarello may be planning on stepping down after his 10-year run as creative director. While it definitely would be a graceful and impressive exit from the brand, this collection could also be proof that he’s just getting started.
Words by Colette Barnhart
Graphics by Lior Anthony