Led by creative director Casey Cadwallader, Mugler has made its grand return to Paris Fashion Week after three years. The show was marked as one of the most highly anticipated this season. The French fashion house decided to have its runway show during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week when it’s known for its ready-to-wear and hasn’t hosted an in-person runway show since February 2020.
Thierry Mugler established himself as one of the most daring and innovative designers of the late twentieth century. His bold silhouettes and unorthodox materials such as plexiglass, vinyl, latex, and chrome pushed boundaries and made their mark on fashion history. After his passing, new creative director Casey Cadwallader had big shoes to fill, and in my opinion, he did not disappoint.
Guests attending the show were taken to the outskirts of Paris at Parc de la Villette and brought inside an expansive space. The show was staged as a unique, hybrid experience with ’90s supermodels, cultural icons, a Lisa Rinna cameo, and a finale where the runway became a dance party. Models such as Paloma Elsesser, Debra Shaw, and Shalom Harlow were just a handful of stars sharing the catwalk. With the notable lack of diversity at couture shows this season, it was refreshing to see Mugler’s cast with a wide range of characters.
The garments were filled with jaw-dropping cutouts, sculptural bras, and leather on leather, which seemed straight from the Mugler archives. The first model took a lap on a rolling platform with her image broadcasted on a TV screen, centered by a staircase in the middle of the runway. The fusion of the digital world and in-person models created something refreshing in the age of constant screen time.
Seizing the moment, Cadwallader also took this occasion as an opportunity to release his first bag for Mugler. A set of models wearing head-to-toe black lace bodysuits danced around the runway holding the new design. Dubbed the “Spiral Curve 01”, the textural twisted leather bag has potential to become as iconic as the vintage Mugler bags being bought today.
Overall, Cadwallader has done a fantastic job of defining Mugler’s aesthetic for today’s generation, and this collection was the catalyst. Showcasing sheer panels, denim, and bodycon pieces, this show was undeniably fun and filled with so much positive energy. With cheering, clapping, and gasping reactions, the audience was kept on its toes. When the show ended, everyone stormed the stage, starting an impromptu party. There aren’t many brands that can pull off that dynamic of show, yet still make a strong point with their clothing. This show will definitely set the tone for Cadwallader’s time as creative director, and I think it’s safe to say Mugler is in good hands.
Words by Mia Aponte.
Graphic by Ashlyn Warner.