Has Punk Gone Pop?

Whether you’re pop-punk veteran Vivienne Westwood or rock star newbie Miley Cyrus, it’s becoming overwhelmingly clear that rejecting trends has become the new trend. The refusal to partake in capitalistic greed and similar ideals owned by the punk ideology are becoming what they stand against—a commodity.

As we’ve been quarantined in our TikTok D.I.Y. decorated homes, watching protests fill the streets and people raid the capitol, a looming feeling of rebellion has struck the minds of many. Not only has this translated into our personal beliefs, but also our sense of style. Nods to the anti-capitalist punk fashion looks of the 80s and 90s are abundantly seen in the wardrobes of the youngest and hottest today. Only this time, instead of coming from the Goodwill bins, their ripped jeans and band tees are somehow making Jeff Bezos even richer.

As is an art school custom, my TikTok “For You Page” is littered in “Cheap Alt.” clothing hauls. Once patched and properly studded, leather jackets are now available for a measly $22.99 on websites such as Shein or Amazon. Each shipped with a handwritten note from a child laborer that states, “don’t worry, there’s no ethical consumption under capitalism anyway!” Fishnets are now bought pre-torn, and Urban Outfitters practically owns the rights to Nirvana. Sid Vicious rolls in his grave as yet another “manic-pixie-dream-girl” crops a Sex Pistols t-shirt she found on Zaful. Instead of patching up second-hand clothing, fast fashion is now taking a shiny pair of Fiskars to new items on purpose— but it’s just like America to make “tattered the new tailored.”

Thankfully, runway designers have a different method of punk revival in mind. Vivienne Westwood’s newest Spring 2021 collection debuted in a short film entitled “True Punk,” featuring classic plaid suits and platform kicks begging the notion of a “punk revival.” The cast of the video was said to include a wide range of models, activists, and talents, all dedicated to the cause of ethical consumption under capitalism. The prints of the collection designed by the American rock band “The Pretenders.” The lead vocalist, Chrissie Hynde, hardly cost a hefty check, and were rather presented in exchange for a donation to her non-profit organization Ahisma Milk, which boasts an ethical and slaughter-free dairy farm that keeps our cow printed friends “moo-re” than comfortable. In compliance with COVID-19 guidelines, all models wore black masks reading “TRUE PUNK.”

Opposing Vivienne’s playful idea of punk was KIDILL’s fall/winter 2021 collection designed by Hiroaki Sueyasu. The collection featured spiked collars and “crust” pants littered in band patches of every era. It was a reference to punk culture as it seemed to be the uniform of every Green Day concertgoer ever, with no notable 2021 twist. Corpse paint, patched vests, and studded belts walked the runway, and ethical consumption yet again made its way to the forefront of the show’s message. Denim made in collaboration with Edwin Haberdasher of CA4LA and Dickies sought to upcycle scraps and develop more sustainable ways to treat denim with less wastewater.

The punk movement has finally regained mainstream momentum, accumulating more outlets and higher technology than ever before to set the record straight on what it truly means to be heard. Hopefully, this will pave the way for more brands to follow suit in ethical production but still leaves us begging the question: “Has punk finally gone pop?”

Writer’s Note: All clothes used in this shoot were borrowed, thrifted or up-cycled. No money went to Jeff Bezos in the production of this editorial. Duh.

Creative direction, styling, makeup and writing by Mandy Olivieri.

Beauty assistance by Riley Gagne.

Photography by Mallory Idoni.

“Crust” Pants made by Lachlan Benford.

Modeling by Anika Chapman, Jamila Jabulani, Matti Oursiniri, and Ryan Paul.