Okay, everyone, let’s talk about Vivienne Westwood. I know… are you scared? Because I’m scared. Let me start by saying that Vivienne Westwood has been my all-time favorite designer since I began to grasp fashion. What I liked about the brand most was how “out there” it was. Westwood worked every single day to make people uncomfortable and rebel against societal norms. Westwood herself used her voice to speak out for or against political issues and that is always what I respected and admired about her.
With my bias removed this show was quite confusing. This show is saying something, but I’m unsure of what. My initial reactions went along the lines of “What is the horrible noise?” to “Don’t tell me their junk is tied together”. I instantly became curious if Vivienne would have loved this or if it sent her rolling in her grave. Rest In Peace my idol. It is an out-of-the-box show which I believe stays on brand, but I’m not sold.
Westwood’s widower, former student, and current creative director of the brand Andreas Krothlenger hosted the show in Paris with a total of 44 looks. The looks were accompanied by highly entertaining performance art by Sons of Sissy. A trio of dancers and musicians who blend pagan ritual with high camp and some excellent impressions of birdsong and weather events. Yes, they were the ones doing the bum drumming in the middle of the venue mid-show. The people in the crowd are much stronger than me. That would have left me giggling with my jaw on the floor and trying to focus on the garments, but I know I wouldn’t be able to peel my eyes away.
While my opinions vary from look to look, Krothlenger produced this show as an ode to his memories with Vivienne and their shared love for historical fashion and style. While we see that throughout the show, I’d say the show displays more modern takes on pieces deemed historical. The first historical silhouettes we see are the fabricated breastplates in Looks 3 and 32 that look like they have been molded around the model’s breasts enhancing their curves in the most faltering way. We also see the iconic Westwood corseting. This overexaggerated silhouette has been seen throughout history with enlarged hips and bonning that slims the waist in looks 35 and 39. I must mention the one central motif that almost every model has. The reinvented codpiece.
Codpeieces were originally used by 16th-century men. It is a triangle cloth used to help preserve a man’s modesty as well as support their genitals. Now we see this codpiece reimagined as a bag for both men and women. Storing things near your crotch is the way things are meant to be stored. No Anna, they were not tying their junk together they were wearing a codpiece, obviously. Don’t tell me y’all expected me to know what a codpiece was.
Overall the looks captured the essential Vivienne Westwood plaid, coreseting, and rebellious flair. The looks left me stunned. Some in a good way and some bad. Now you may all live the rest of your lives knowing what a codpiece is. I know you were dying to find out.
Words and Graphic by Anna Jara