In the ongoing and exhausting debate of sustainability, the discussions almost exclusively focuses on products. The questions circulating—Is the product made of recyclable or biodegradable materials? Is the packaging also recyclable? Is the product cruelty-free? All this talk of products and materials neglect the all-important middleman—the producer. Preaching sustainability without providing employees of these businesses with sustainable wages is a bit hypocritical, is it not?
Before going any further, let’s discuss what exactly fair labor and fair trade is. Green America defines fair trade as “a system of exchange that honors producers, communities, consumers, and the environment.” The fair trade certification works to ensure that the often marginalized communities sustainable products come from benefit from the profits. After all, sustainability is all about giving back to what you take from. This includes both the environment and the people living in it.
While the topic of fair trade and fair labor comes up most often in regards to coffee and cocoa, it’s something the fashion industry needs to own up to as well. Marsha Dickinson, PhD, professor and chairperson of the fashion and apparel studies department at the University of Delaware, noted how, “A designer who has never visited a factory, observed the context of production in a developing country, or been educated on the varied risks present throughout the product lifecycle, will almost certainly make decisions that negatively impact people and the environment.”
In partnership with Fair Labor Association (FLA), Gildan Activewear, and the Instituto Politecnico Centroamericano (IPC), Dickinson took her students on a field study to Honduras to observe the conditions of textile factories. This expedition aims to help students have the knowledge and awareness to determine if “a garment is to be truthfully described as ‘ethical,’ ‘sustainable,’ or ‘socially responsible.’”
This more holistic approach to conclude if a product is sustainable starts with being empathetic toward more than just the environment. Of course, this does not come without its obstacles. As explained in The Unattainability of Sustainability, sustainability comes at a price, a high one, one that many aren’t willing to pay.
Forbes references data from a survey by Nosto, an e-commerce personalization platform, revealing “52% of consumers do want the fashion industry to follow more sustainable practices, only 29% of consumers would pay more for sustainably-made versions of the same items.” I can’t even blame them or point the finger, seeing as my own financial situation will hardly allow for this ethical investment.
That’s what all this is at the end of the day anyway—an investment. Paying for products that are sustainable for both the environment and the producers is an investment in the earth and the people living in it. It’s important to remember that we can’t have one without the other.