Welcome to the dinner of peak consumerism, hope you’re hungry. Whilst pop culture icons and celebrities alike: Devon Lee Carlson, Katy Perry, Kim Petras, and Emma Roberts were given a seat at the dining table to watch what Balenciaga had to serve up this Spring/Summer Ready to Wear season, Amy Irving lustfully played over the speakers. Suddenly, the table became more than just a place to eat. Some would say this show was better than sex on the dining table. The collection was dedicated to “fashion that has a point of view” and with it, Demna looked fashion right in the eyes (through Balenciaga sunglasses of course).
With an established fashion house like Balenciaga, it is a huge task to take on the role of Creative Director. Over the years a variety of scandals have surfaced and with light of recent events that I neither support nor want to brush over, but rather purely just speak on the fashion aspect of the brand. Demna has truly taken this position to its height and blended himself with Balenciaga’s legacy and history. This show specifically, while silhouette wise was an ode to the Crisobol’s Balenciaga, inspiration and conceptual factors truly came from Demna’s personal past. His earliest memories of fashion designing were sitting at his grandmother’s dining table sketching (hence the table), he wrote in the show notes given to the press. The influence of this show may be from a childhood dream, but the designs that came from were anything but immature.
Seducing us easily, the show began strong with lingerie looks that might have as well been modeled by Dakota Johnson. These sort of looks are not typical for the designer, as he in the past has not leaned into “sex-appeal” as some might say. Everybody has their price though. The world wants designers to push the boundaries more and more, meaning less and less clothes, and well Balenciaga does aim to please! Balenciaga’s entire branding with Demna has truly built onto constructed and illusive messages on commercialism in the industry and I think this show is yet another subtle slap in the face. The show then moves into some more full coverage looks, and then back to some not so full coverage looks, a sort of game of cat and mouse.
A set of sixteen looks in a row were the main course of this show. A tribute to Cristóbal’s iconic cocoon silhouette, the same cropped puffer hit the runway, all completely different, but all also still the cocoon. Three of these puffer’s stood out to me specifically, introducing a new interesting shape where the hood and sleeves connect almost as if the models got stuck removing them. This modern experimentation twist on such a true to Balenciaga house staple really serves up Demna’s capabilities on a silver platter. The collection having no gender lines made it hard to know what sort of looks to expect next, but I do like to be surprised when at the table…
It just kept going (that’s what she said). Messily thrown together layered looks that were maybe not so delicious but yet another subtle nod to overindulgence were followed by the climax of the show. Pink and neutral corset tube tops with visible boning that should not have been able to stay up alone, paired with The Balenciaga tight-as-skin leggings (as seen before on Kim K) overtook the stage. These bandeau-like tops are guaranteed to be seen on all the attendees who were allowed to sit in on this dinner very soon, because of course they were chosen for just that, their capabilities to push trends to the max. In turn the less powerful of us will get the breadcrumbs of this meal when fast fashion finally picks up the new shape in six months or so. Closing out the show, a dangerously sleek all black true hourglass form gown with the shoulder pads of all shoulder pads and a cape draping from, leaving guests with that desired sweet taste in the mouth after a multi course meal.
Were you satisfied?
One could say the brand ate with this collection, but sometimes even the cult-like consumption culture of it all isn’t enough to pull one from the depths of their controversy, no matter how alluring a seat at that table would be.
Words by Elisabeth Edwards
Graphic by Evan Skovronsky