Lorena Pipenco, a Romanian designer who started her fashion journey when she was fourteen, learned to sew on her grandmother’s machine. Pipenco’s grandmother was a seamstress in Romania during a time of political upheaval and would bring home fabric scraps from her job. Her mother would then transform these into tablecloths, scarves, and hats to sell, enabling them to buy a one-way ticket to the U.K. to escape. Though Pipenco learned this story later in life, it gave her a deeper appreciation for the craft. The three of them ventured into the world of fashion entrepreneurship by setting up a small local boutique on Instagram, making it the first time Pipenco understood how the fashion business worked, what consumers wanted, and how to make money.
Since her Instagram boutique days, Pipenco moved to New York City and graduated from Parsons School of Design, where she became the youngest Masters graduate. Now, she is working on her own brand, PIPENCO, from her apartment. Her work now frequently explores the tension between clashing textures and fabrics and the feelings of dissonance. Tension is one of Pipenco’s favorite elements to explore, and it is evident in her designs, as they often feature unusual shapes and contrasting textures, evoking a sense of nostalgia and childhood comfort.
Her collections showcase exquisitely constructed garments that resemble doll costumes, paired with cotton blouses and wool coats, as well as traditional Romanian garments. Sometimes, she finds inspiration in the cinematic imagery she loved as a child. Other times, her textures reflect the vibrant, mismatched colors and patterns of her childhood home. Pipenco is set on getting increased eyes on her creations. She has already dressed notable celebrities, including Tierra Wack, Julia Fox, and Melanie Martinez, but she’s also eager for real people to wear her creations.
In terms of philosophies, Pipenco’s mission is stated on the brand’s website, “Pipenco manifests from a need to rekindle our youth. It exists as a safe-haven for all hindered by cultural, political and creative stigmas carried generationally. Colors, textile and print come together to create a memory of Eastern Europe sweet enough to inspire an entire wardrobe while remaining critical and aware of its traditional importance. We make innocent clothes for a customer looking to combat the harshness of our world through the eyes of childhood.”
While researching more about the meaning behind the brand, the SS25 collection stood out to me. The show began with a woman picking a flower from the center of the room before the models began their walk. The scene was intimate and playful as Romanian music played throughout the show. The over-exaggerated hats, fluffy textures, extremely high platforms, color combinations, textiles, prints, and accessories added so much character to the collection as a whole. My favorite garment had to be the showstopping Look 1. The doll-like dress was dramatically oversized and decorated with lace and flower prints, platform shoes, a yellow and white knitted hair scarf, and knee-high striped socks. Another look that I liked was the dramatically large yellow and white checkered dress, also with striped socks. The fluffy, almost stringy material and bootie-like shoes stood out to me. The combination of all of these wild elements really set the tone of what to expect from the designer.
Overall, the Pipenco SS25 show was well executed and displayed a culture that the designer is very enthusiastic about sharing. Lorena Pipenco’s collection addresses the political situation in Romania in a playful and nostalgic way. The maximalist details within the designs and the nod to Pipenco’s experience growing up add a contextual layer to the collection. I enjoyed viewing the collection and learning about all of the different aspects of the designer’s life that affected this collection. Pipenco’s unique approach, Romanian influences, and childhood experiences truly complete the show.
Words by Jade Pettyjohn
Graphic by Thirdy Pacis