Pierre Cardin is and always has been a retrofuturist’s paradise. This season’s show, entitled “Journey to the Future” was no different. Set on the Seine, more specifically “Noti Club,” a floating restaurant positioned in prime view of the Eiffel Tower, the SS25 show set the scene before it even began. Blue and purple lights engulfed the boat, casting every attendee in an alien-like glow, and all staff, from the ushers to valets, were dressed head to toe in Pierre Cardin.
The pre-show energy was unmatched and excitingly cohesive, as it intertwined with the comfortable weight of the brand’s 74-year heritage and legacy. Teaser images and promotional material had been kept vague, only showing clips of rushing water through a porthole, so I was unsure what to expect. The runway was fairly bare, devoid of any clues, so all attendees were truly kept in the dark (or should I say kept in the blacklight…). So, I was pleasantly surprised when the runway lights focused and the first model rose from a hidden elevator, strutting down the catwalk in a piece that could have come straight from the archives.
Upon further observation, I realized that the mushroom-capped, metallic blue, Fifth Element-esque ensemble was much more than a garment that was recognizably Pierre Cardin. It was a modernly futuristic rendition of the brand’s classic retro futuristic approach. As look after look walked, I couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of awe. Experiencing Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin’s creations in real time was like a breath of fresh air. The designs were dynamic, engaging, and innovative while still respecting the established brand identity.
Geometric silhouettes were accompanied by iPhones, streaming the runway right back to the viewers, gaining a glimpse from the models’ perspectives. As I stood on the side, recording from my own phone, the voyeuristic loop of coverage forced me to unexpectedly reflect on the seemingly unending digital landscape we find ourselves currently living in. However, that wasn’t the only eye-opener I faced that evening.
While I tend to be emotionally moved by art, looks hot off the runway usually have little to no impact on my psyche. Yet, as Look 44, a shimmering, iridescent, teardrop-hem dress, pranced down the runway, I was speechless. No picture does this garment justice; it’s genuinely ethereal nature brought tears to my eyes, something I hadn’t noticed until the model had long walked off. So, bravo to Basilicati-Cardin and the design team. I’ll truly remember that dress for the rest of my life.
However, the evening didn’t end there. As the show concluded, and every look paraded down the runway in a final display of flowing textures, exaggerated elements, and Space Age designs, the applause was momentous, and the environment became celebratory. We were quickly ushered off the boat into an afterparty, where everything became much more lively. Models mingled with the crowd, the creative team toasted, and the canapes were mysterious yet wonderfully futuristic. Partygoers were dressed in everything from archival Cardin to a suit jacket with mosaic lapels (Shoutout to Eugenio, who made my night even better with his fit check video, but unfortunately, I was sans tiny mic, so the audio was very crunchy). It was an exciting end to an incredible night.
As the breeze began to chill the river air, the Eiffel Tower sparkled a wonderful pink hue, coincidentally calling back to the show’s beginning when the scene had been washed in magenta. Pierre Cardin put on a waterfront spectacle complete with a full lineup exploring the past, present, and future. All in all, it was a truly unforgettable journey.
Words by Miia Popovics
Graphic by Eve Friday