Since 1932, Nina Ricci has been a lasting house in women’s couture, celebrating timeless femininity throughout the decades. Nearly one hundred years later, the newly appointed Creative Director Harris Reed is leading the brand into a fresh new era. Reed strives to champion fluidity and creativity, as seen in his student work at Central Saint Martins, his private label, and his close collaboration with former Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele.
His Ricci debut began with dressing his close friends (who also happen to be international superstars). Adele, Florence Pugh, and Harry Styles all made appearances at various award shows and performances dressed in head-to-toe Nina Ricci by Reed. For weeks, the brand’s social media displayed three solitary posts of each celebrity flaunting their custom outfit, which was a genius marketing tactic and introduction to the new era. Reed then went on to debut his first collection for the house at Paris Fashion Week, showcasing a complete collection of Ready to Wear ensembles for Fall 2023.
The bold and bright silhouettes provided a recognizable look for a brand that has seemingly faded into the background in the past years. The opening look of fluffy tulle and polka dots suggested a promising, more inclusive future — something most long-standing fashion brands are retreating away from nowadays. However, some looks felt unfinished, like the closing set as its sleek mermaid skirt that splayed beautifully across the runway fell flat with no accessories and a simple purple tube top. Overall, the collection was fresh and compelling. Some of the standouts were the bubblegum pink feathered babydoll dress with a train and blue bow platforms and a fully tailored denim suit with a matching oversized sun hat. The powder blue gown with its mega-sized bow accent, stomach peekaboo, and circus-tent-like print on a grand dress all showcase the cohesive yet versatile new vision of clean tailoring and colorful structural garments. The platform heels and attention-grabbing looks nod to trends favored by Gen Z, while the classical yet unique tuxedos provide something of interest for the more traditional consumer. It feels joyous, exciting, new, and relevant. The message is clear: there is something for everyone.
Harris Reed’s takeover puts the brand back on the mainstream map, comparable to Loewe or Mugler. Pushing fluidity and inclusivity fostered by creativity will not be easy nor widely accepted. However, one cannot help but feel anticipation for the brand’s future. Reed is just getting started and will undoubtedly become an influential figure in the fashion world, and Nina Ricci is the perfect touchstone to define his legacy.
Words by Miia Popovics.
Graphic by Emily Strycharz.