“I’m just a girl”, while maybe one of the internet’s most annoying excuses for stupidity, really struck British fashion designer Ashley Williams a bit deeper. Known for her kitschy and playful designs, her Spring/Summer 2025 Ready to Wear collection that debuted at London Fashion Week came as no surprise to brand followers. Entitled “The Cycle Repeats”, the show told a lighthearted story of growth, (quite literally) and spiritually.
As a less established brand, it was crucial to deliver a comprehensive experience that captures the essence of what the show should evoke. With such a blank runway space, selection of music was essential. Of course opening with the princess (queen) of teen pop was the only option. Someone who knows what it is like to be treated as though she is incapable. As Britney Spears’ “Overprotected” filled the room with nostalgia, the first model strutted down in a bunny print onesie with shoulder pads to accompany the otherwise minimal design. Oh, baby, baby.
Backstage, Williams explains the main inspiration for the collection was “exploring different parts of yourself, different ways in which you show up in the world”. The show takes us on a journey of self actualization and creation, taking us from “emotionally immature” to “fully functioning”.
Moving on from the bunny print for adult babies, to a more compelling pistol print for the feminine assassins of the world. A standout look being an oversized white draped ensemble with hidden gun imprints and a baseball cap labeling the model “happiest girl in the world” with gory bullet holes for some bling of course. The transition felt like the realization of the real world hitting a once innocent minded being. You can only stay oblivious for so long, and yet society still expects a smile. It brings into view the tie between the title, “The Cycle Repeats”, and collection. The cycle of life perhaps Williams is unpacking. A deep exploration of oneself and then how oneself interacts with the outside world. This theme feels almost a world wide phenomenon realization as we were all hit with Poor Things, a much heavier piece of art on the conversation, earlier in the year.
Now if we are talking personal favorites, another major standout was also not a patterned piece at all but a mini dress overkilled with trinkets galore and a face mask front and center. Representing the effect Covid had on so many young women possibly? The transformation of confidence and style from being in your own home 24/7 that allowed people around the globe to come out on the other side nearly a different person you could say. The era of lockdown was like a cycle of its own. During such unfortunate events, having far too much time for relearning things about yourself and about others, creating space for mass introspection.
While from afar, this collection may seem like another naive brand entering an already oversaturated style. It is the small details that separate the smaller brands into “girls” and “women” in this industry. Taking note of the hair of each model, visibly played an important role to the artistic view of the collection, wigs hiding more than half the models faces. Showing that contrast of an idealized and confident version of ourselves in comparison to the timid vibe felt through the hair or rather forced into place. The details all come full circle (cycle).
A brand like Ashley Williams is definition meta, almost being so representative of itself and the show’s meaning. The brand is clearly still finding its precise style and who Williams is as a designer, for which I will be along for the cycle of. We are all constantly learning and growing, and I for one enjoy watching the rise of her and many other brands alike this fashion season. She is certainly one to watch – Ashley Williams, not a girl, not yet a woman.
Words by Elisabeth Edwards
Graphic by Evan Skovronsky