The fashion industry felt a wave of shock when the death of Dame Vivienne Westwood hit the news on December 29th, 2022. A sad day for all who loved the British fashion designer, revolutionary, friend, and mother. Marc Jacobs is a brand that roots from inspiration, one of them being Vivienne Westwood.
And so on February 2nd, Marc Jacobs organized a last-minute runway show to showcase his Spring 2023 Collection at the Park Avenue Armory entitled “Heroes,” with a Westwood quote prominently featured in the show notes: “Fashion is life enhancing, and I think it’s a lovely, generous thing to do for other people.” The show began in near pitch black lighting with violinist Jennifer Koh playing a portion of Einstein on the Beach as the models emerged from the harsh darkness to soft lighting.
This show was a love note to Vivienne Westwood, a big hero to Jacobs evidently, as he used his collection to honor and continue her legacy. Most of the models were styled in the signature Westwood aesthetic: a bleached or dyed unbrushed, yet chic pixie cut, along with pearls. Two looks were even meant to capture Westwood’s famous 1981 tit tops, through twisting of the fabric to replicate that of a woman’s nipple, meant to make a statement and empower women.
I am incredibly in awe of the collection’s range and versatility. Although the backbone of the show was heavily inspired by Westwood, the looks didn’t stray from their Marc Jacobs originality as clothing with a deeper meaning that could easily be seen on the streets of New York. The start of the show had various muted green color palettes and appeared to be pieced together as if by different quilts and materials into bedazzled military-like parkas along with hints of sherpa. Slowly pops of color were introduced until all we could see were full on bright monochromatic looks. Besides the colors, what might be most impressive is the different constructions of each piece. Jacobs assembled pieces that either distorted or emphasized the body through heavyweight materials, including some vintage fabrics.
A standout for me was the model with intense red hair matching the heavily patterned dress with pockets, paired with red leather gloves and of course, black Kiki boots. As well as the two pantless looks, I think going pantless is not only a recent fashion trend but one that Westwood would be in accord with. Lastly, it is impossible to not recognize the impeccable structure and material used on the two-toned faux fur hooded coat with small slits up the legs. I feel the models’ walks exceptionally portrayed a strong emotion of grief and impenetrable strength. Either way, it is impressive to all how well Jacobs has come back to the runway taking on such a melancholic topic. The show was not only a beautiful tribute but also represented a new phase of where the punk aesthetic that Westwood once created is headed.
Words by Elisabeth Edwards.
Graphic by Evelyn Venezky.