If there is one thing Maison Margiela does best, it’s put on a show. In 2022, Margiela’s collection was a big surprise to the fashion world coming back from Covid-19. Instead of a runway show, the brand’s creative director, John Galliano, chose to feature the collection in a theater performance. Although it was a performance to be remembered, many longed for a traditional runway show, and this year Galliano delivered.
For men’s fashion week, Maison Margiela chose to exhibit their Fall 2023 co-ed ready-to-wear line on the roof terrace of the Place des États-Unis. Some would think co-ed would be an odd choice for men’s fashion week, but I enjoyed watching a genderless runway. For this collection, Galliano worked closely with Pendelton using silk, tulle, and mesh fabrics to push Margiela’s signature deconstructed look. The line feels heavily inspired by everything punk between the 1950s through 80s and is rumored to be an ode to the recently passed Vivienne Westwood, from whom Galliano took much inspiration from.
The show starts off strong with very chic looks over fishnets. I find their use of hats in every look impressive, with each constructed with scraps of tulle and trash bags. We have various reminders of the 2022 performance with a western appeal to some looks sprinkled without. Although we didn’t see the same extravagant headpieces and cowboy hats as in 2022, there were many similarities in the constructions and patterns of the coats, shaped to be overly large at the bottom. The theme of southern romance stays alive in 2023 through the bolo ties and overall feel of quite a few looks. The models all bring something of their own to the walks and facial expressions telling a story. Some almost seem in a hurry carrying the event’s invite in their hands. The invite was described as something you would see in the 80s when invited to any “underground” nightlife, typically where you would see the most outrageously punk clothing. Therefore referencing where these characters or models are heading, some secret party that only a few know about.
Margiela truly was a highlight of this year’s men’s fashion week. While many brands went for toned-down looks, they chose to stay true to their avant-garde branding. The collection toed the line between couture and wearable, from tulle skirts to beautifully crafted oversized coats. One of their most stunning pieces was a bold and stiff lime green coat with a bow on the right side, and another was a stunning cornflower blue tulle dress paired with stoned tabi shoes. There was a certain continuity to the show, with fishnets and their signature tabi shoes being present throughout. However, almost halfway through the show, the brand’s Disney collaboration was introduced with tees underneath a Pemblington coat, then a hat, then more tees. It is very difficult to make a brand like Disney feel like haute couture, as we have seen from brands like Coach, but unfortunately for Margiela, I feel they have also missed the mark, and it almost took away from the edge of this new line that started off so strong.
I feel this show marks the official bring back of decor-less catwalks. The blandness of the room truly allowed the attention to fall on the clothes and the models’ incredible acting. Leon Dame was a huge hit in this show, the feeling of the 80s was well displayed through his walk. Despite the push with Disney, the show was a great representation of the different brands they have been working with and a perfect example of how well Margiela does storytelling.
Words by Elisabeth Edwards.
Graphic by Ashlyn Warner.