Telfar Clemens has become the creator of the “it” bag for 2021. The New York-based designer has been able to create a cult following for his infamous Shopping Bag. The bag has a simple shape, based on the form of Bloomingdale’s shopping bag. The rectangle bag comes in three sizes, many colors, and comes in at a $200 price tag. Jokingly called the Bushwick Birkin, the bag has started a cult following across all social media platforms. But how did this bag created almost seven years ago just become the best-selling bag of 2021?
The bag was created in 2014 and created a buzz in the New York fashion scene. It was sold through the Telfar website and at Opening Ceremony (RIP). Telfar’s brand recognition grew, as did the popularity of his bag. By 2017, the bag became a staple in the New York fashion scene. I got my bag in 2019 at the Opening Ceremony, and it is a moment I will never forget. As a graduation gift to myself, the bag represented the jump between high school and college. It was the first actual fashion item I felt “in” on.
As the dreaded year 2020 rolled along, we saw a rise in the Black Lives Matter Movement’s much-needed protests. The murders of Breonna Taylor, George Floyd, and too many others lead to a mass influx of political activism online and in the streets. Protest Organizers urged supporters to put their money where their mouth is and shop Black-owned businesses, leading Telfar to become a household name.
As demand grew, the bags became incredibly coveted. The brand only did limited drops, but exclusivity is the opposite of the Telfar brand. As their motto states, “It’s not for you — it’s for everyone.” Telfar began a Bag Security Program, allowing customers to pre-order bags. The bags would be delivered within the next few months. Instead of creating an exclusive handbag, only for the few, Telfar allowed anyone to get a bag if they wanted one. Exclusivity is something brands dream of, but not Telfar. The bag is not only inclusive in its drops, but the price tag is accessible to most. The small comes in at $150, the medium $202, and the large $257.
While not a low price, that is much lower than its competitors’ handbags.
In April 2021, the brand dealt with its first significant knockoff. LA fast fashion brand Guess tried to create a bag that was the same shape and color variety. Fans of Telfar were quick to notice this cheap jab of trying to hop on a trend, and they were not happy. A social media frenzy began, calling out the major corporation for directly coping a Black-owned designer. Guess pulled the bag from its shelves due to the backlash. Telfar is not the first to create a tote bag (obviously). Still, the Guess bag’s creation is just another example of the big guy stealing from the little guy, yet this time the little guy is winning.
Telfar success story comes after almost 15 years of working in the fashion industry and fighting for his place at the table we call the fashion world. His story and business model show that fashion doesn’t have to run on exclusivity, but rather letting everyone in on the fun can make you even more of a phenomenon.
Words by Tommy Drennan.
Graphic by Charley.