Listen, I want to be honest right off the bat. I was a die-hard lover, groupie, fan, whatever you want to call it for Alessandro Michele’s Gucci. I loved the pussybows, eclectic 70’s color palettes, and maximalist glamor his collections brought to the runways. So last November, when mega fashion conglomerate Kering announced he’d be stepping down with no planned successor in place…I was baffled but also ultimately terrified.
What would this mean for a brand that had so clearly defined and ingrained itself in today’s pop culture? After two months of bated breath, I found out. Sabato Di Sarno, who’s had his hand in many proverbial fashion cookie jars, was coming hot off the heels of being Pierpalo Piccioli’s right-hand man and was slated to take over as Gucci’s new creative director. The brand’s Instagram was immediately cleared out, and for many months it laid bare.
His debut campaign was eventually released, and a few bits and pieces were dropped here and there. From these crumbs, I was excited (and a bit nostalgic for Michele) and essentially eager to see what Di Sarno would bring. That was my first mistake. Days before he was about to debut his first Gucci collection at Milan Fashion Week, Di Sarno finally released a statement on his vision for the brand. “It’s a very Italian brand with a huge heritage. Italian in craftsmanship, Italian in taste, and we lost that I think. I want to bring it back.”
The last sentence struck me like a Jackie Bag to the face. Back?! What is there to bring back? Gucci is not struggling, independent, or lacking any kind of media attention or fame. In fact, it is considered one of the most prominent luxury brands around. I know the comment was mainly about craftsmanship and history, but unlike other major fashion houses, Gucci is not lacking in that department. So Di Sarno was either being unfortunately naive or intentionally shady. But hey, what’s the fashion industry without a catty little comment?
Regardless, after that bold statement, I had a fairly high standard for the upcoming runway show. It would be the defining moment for the new Gucci. Yet, as the models streamed onto the stark black runway, I couldn’t help but feel a bit dissatisfied. The tailoring was chic, and the color palette was classy, sure, but it felt like I was waiting for something distinctive, and it never came. People immediately jumped online to compare Di Sarno’s collection to Tom Fords’ when he was Creative Director at Gucci. But Tom Ford’s Gucci was fresh, unique, and recognizable. Gucci’s SS24 runway comes at a time when Tom Ford has his own brand, one that carries his trademark sleekness, and this season, with the two shows being back to back… Di Sarno’s similar sexiness paled in comparison.
However, not all hope is lost. Di Sarno has an excellent track record with history at Prada and Valentino, and it’s possible he just started off on the wrong foot. At least, I hope he did. Overall, the collection was nice, and the craftsmanship was there, but the transition from Alessandro to Sabato is not going to be an easy or uncontroversial path. Their design aesthetics are completely different, so comparing them is a bit asinine. However, that does not mean we shouldn’t hold Di Sarno and his new vision for Gucci to higher standards. The potential and passion are there, so keep your eyes peeled, as something exciting will be just around the corner.
Words by Miia Popovics.
Graphic by Carlota Sosa.