The year is 1477, and Archduke Maximilian of Austria has fallen madly in love with Mary of Burgundy (a region in France). Okay, maybe it was less about love and romance and more about strategic planning to win back Austria’s territory. Regardless, Maximilian wonders how he will win her favor and take her hand in marriage? He proposes with a ring containing a small number of what are possibly early marquise cut diamonds arranged in the form of a letter ‘M.’ Mary of Burgundy accepts, and the tradition of engagement rings and diamonds cut for jewelry has begun. Marilyn Monroe said it best in “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes,” “The French are glad to die for love. They delight in fighting duels, but I prefer a man who lives and gives expensive jewels.”
Flash forward over 500 years to today, and diamonds are just as on-trend as ever. Diamond cuts can change as many abandon the marquise, princess, or cushion cut in favor of the oval or pear-cut. Band designs can change, with some now rejecting the minimalist designs for large, sculptural bands. The setting and arrangement have changed now that some are looking for trio settings, pairing diamonds with pale sapphires or bright gemstones. Not to mention the craze around Toi et Moi rings thanks to Ariana Grande and Megan Fox. Cuts, band designs, settings, and arrangements come and go, but one thing remains; the diamond! The song still rings true, “…square-cut or pear-shaped, These rocks don’t lose their shape.”
But, let’s flash forward again to 100 years from now. Jewelry buyers are among the most concerned with their environmental impact. No matter how eco-friendly a diamond mine maybe, they cannot excuse the fact that extracting diamonds still leaves an enormous carbon footprint and that they are a nonrenewable resource. In fact, the world’s supply of precious gems is expected to run out by 2045. So what will diamond shopping look like in the distant future? Just like it is with clothing, vintage or heirloom diamonds are always an option. Or, if you’re in the market for something new, lab-grown diamonds are available. They are identical to nature-made diamonds down to a chemical level, but they are more ethical and affordable. And for those looking for more sparkle for their buck, moissanite is lab-grown with a few differences from what is pulled out of the earth. These sustainable options ensure that “…stiff back or stiff knees, you (can still) stand straight at Tiffany’s.”
It seems that diamonds are poised to stand the ultimate test of time. This everlasting jewelry is a welcome breath of fresh air in the age of TikTok microtrends. The TikTok fashion girlies can easily dismantle the twenty-year trend cycle, but would they be able to take on the five-hundred-year tradition? Or would they even want to? After all, diamonds are a girl’s best friend.
Creative Direction and Words by Lauren Helgason.
Photography by Patrick Cox.
Styling and Makeup by Elena Dorsey.
Modeled by Asia Redhead, Bianca Maregatti and Kevin Valdez.