It is no surprise that ballet has become a common theme within different designers’ collections throughout the past couple of years. However, Maximillian Davis’s approach to ballet-core in Ferragamo’s Spring Summer 2025 collection has made it stand out among the rest.
Davis’s runway showcased ballet-coded outerwear with a twist. Form-fitting, cashmere layers–complemented by silk, nylon, suede, and organza coats–danced around the space. Comfortable fabrics, such as cashmere and cotton, were incorporated into the line to ensure the practicality of the collection. These materials were seen in layered and tied pieces that were inspired by practice wear, leotards, and tights.
Aside from the double-wrapped jackets, geometrical neckline dresses, and trench coats, my favorite part of this collection was the accessories. Sandals and heels with satin ribbons that criss-crossed around the ankle to mimic the pointe shoe design, as well as signature, buttery-soft shoulder bags stood out as staples. Dancers tend to carry a lot with them, hence requiring larger bags. Davis highlighted this in the bags from Looks 6 and 48 of the collection (which happen to be my favorite). These mushy bags appeared to collapse in on themselves, their supple, outsized design creating a unique shape embellished with Gancini hardware.
However, Davis’s collection was not just about aesthetics. The line also drew from the history of the ballet world, while keeping the functionality of dancers’ clothing in mind. Davis’s inspiration for the collection came from digging through old Ferragamo archives, where he found a photo of Ferragamo’s founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, fitting shoes on the feet of dancer and anthropologist Katherine Dunham. Dunham’s art, influenced by her ethnographic research in the Caribbean, resonated with Davis, who connected with it through his Trinidadian and Jamaican roots.
Davis’s Caribbean influences were showcased in the frayed, stonewashed denim and rubber moccasins in his collection. The addition of these raw elements, juxtaposed with the rest of the line’s clean silhouettes, created a sense of balance and unity, while also adding a layer of cultural nuance to the line’s ballet-core aesthetic.
However, this wasn’t the first time Davis imbued historical influences into his work. In an interview with The Fashionography, Davis said, “I’ve always incorporated different historic eras in my work—eras which feel relatable to me and my heritage. At Ferragamo, I’ve sought out similarities—and the beauty of this brand is that there are so many different stories you can relate to.”
Throughout the Ferragamo SS25 collection, Davis wove together his own story for the brand, blending the historical identity of the fashion label with elements of his Caribbean heritage to create an unforgettable homage to ballet that was both modern and chic.
Words by Jade Pettyjohn
Graphic by Emma Sellner