By now, I’m sure anyone that even remotely cares about fashion has heard of Acne Studios. Fashion it-girls like Rosalía, Kylie Jenner, and Emma Chamberlain were in attendance at their SS24 show this past Wednesday, September 27th. In fact, many of Rosalía’s Motomami World Tour outfits were from the brand, as well as some of Beyonce’s Renaissance World Tour looks. Rihanna, Timothée Chalamet, Bad Bunny, and Olivia Rodrigo are some other honorable mentions spotted wearing Acne recently.
The reason all of these names are being thrown about is so that we can truly grasp the kind of roster this brand has—a brand that feels like we learned about for the first time yesterday. The brand’s peculiar name struck me since the first time I heard it, and it really got me thinking: “Who is Acne Studios and where did they come from?”
Originally, ACNE stood for “Associated Computer Nerd Enterprises” when the creative collective began. Graphic design, film production, and advertising was their original focus until Jonny Johansson broke away with Acne Studios in 2006. “Ambition to Create Novel Expressions” became the new meaning of the acronym after Johansson started focusing solely on fashion.
At only 17 years, the brand has managed to achieve the sort of success you would only expect from fashion houses that have been around for decades. Acne’s minimalist yet visually invigorating silhouettes awakens a curiosity within the viewer. Is it wearable? Yes. But is it basic? Never. You almost can’t quite put your finger on what makes their pieces so enthralling. Noticing the styling of each look from head to toe for the SS24 show, it is a complete work of art. This isn’t a show review, but I think everyone would know exactly what I mean if they looked it up.
There is something to be said about how much minimalism is resonating with a whole generation on the precipice of an incoming recession. Whether or not it’s true (I don’t know, I’m not a finance bro), it is interesting to theorize about the effects it would have on the trend cycle. The Great Recession circa 2008 was the worst economic downturn in the US since the Great Depression. At a time where groceries were a luxury, fashion was not very present in people’s minds (see: Moments in Fashion That Preceded Recession). Hence, the first big indie sleaze boom with 90’s grunge influences. Indie sleaze might not necessarily be what you would envision when you think about minimalism in 2023, but to me real minimalism is measured in the thriftability of an outfit. That’s exactly what sleaze is all about: effortless, messy, but somehow chic.
I’m not saying Acne Studios clothing is messy and low-effort, but I am saying you wouldn’t immediately know this peach pink mock neck is actually worth $580. That is all that minimalism is: an illusion of a low-effort image that is actually incredibly and intricately calculated. Just like indie sleaze.
I wouldn’t say the brand actually fits the sleaze description. I think it is much more elevated and timeless, but the concept of illusion correlates nonetheless. As someone who considers themselves to be more on the maximalist side, I was thrown by how much I actually enjoy the Acne look. It goes to show that there is room for everyone in the brand. It is evident within their celebrity presence too. From actors to models to reggaetoneros, a brand with no bounds is incredibly refreshing to witness.
Words by Beth Rodriguez.
Graphic by May Avramovitz.