When the world turns upside down, artists rise. There’s something to be said for creative communities in times of desperation, isolation, and despair. Willy Chavarria’s Autumn Winter 2025 collection, Tarantula, proves this, and more.
Fashion is one of many industries currently being infiltrated by far-right propaganda. While some luxury houses are swayed by political pockets and regressing on their ethical standards, many designers still stay in active resistance. Chavarria is one such American, and while the New York native traditionally stages his runways from his home base, this season was defiantly showcased during Paris Fashion Week.
Located at the American Cathedral in Paris, Tarantula wrapped its spindly legs around the notion of existence, resistance, and persistence. At a time of such uncertainty, Tarantula serves the “dignified disenfranchised.” However, woe and reflection paved the way for a brighter, resilient, and joyous path. There was a casual coolness in the air as models (ranging from celebrities to street cast) strutted down the runway draped in a rich Baroque color palette consisting of reds, blues, yellows, browns, and greens.
Silhouettes ranged from structured sets to dynamically tailored, looser suiting.
And oh boy, let me tell you, the lapels came out to play. Strong, sharp, and the center of attention. Chavarria’s attention to detail is always expertly intentional and just right. A peekaboo print, a flash of gingham, a high waist, a low waist, a bright glove…Tarantula provides all.
Also spotted: Chavarria’s signature hats and roses that continuously populated the runway, styled with other elements like rosaries and carabiners (aka the standard starter kit for the queer POC experience).
Accessories are always a Chavarria strong suit, and Tarantula is no exception. Every look, whether the focus was boxers or bustiers, was perfectly balanced and personified. There was a characterization, a life, that each garment had. It is romantic, and more importantly, it’s real. Tarantula’s web stretched wide and far, universally connecting cultures in an engaging and long-needed way. In a time of darkness, Chavarria’s Tarantula has provided, protected, and preserved a culture many are attempting to sweep away. But a spider’s strand is far from weak, so come with steel, be met with silk, bear Kevlar, and face our web.
Words by Miia Popovics
Graphic by Eve Friday