It’s no secret that the pandemic has changed all of our lives. As a fashion student, after the initial fear subsided, I was curious about how this massive change would affect the work of designers across the globe. After the distribution of the vaccine, I was excited to see the first big fashion month and the product of each designer’s creativity under lockdown. Finally, we could see the tangible results of a shifted mindset!
As I’m sure many would empathize, I was incredibly let down. The spring/summer 2022 lines weren’t bad per se, but they weren’t very great either. After building up this great vision in my head of a new era of fashion, I was just disappointed. As I sat through show after show, I kept thinking, “why is this so sad and mediocre?”. Peeking through my fingers over my eyes, I clicked on the last show. Behold! Our savior, Alexander McQueen, redeems London fashion week.
The McQueen spring/summer 2022 womenswear line was hands down my favorite show to watch this season. As a longtime fan of McQueen, I was relieved that this was the show that redeemed the month. Sarah Burton, the creative director, created a collection that perfectly combines the romanticism and edginess in womenswear that is so vital to the name “McQueen.” Set in a massive clear bubble above the skyline in East London, the aptly named “London Skies” show took place. The models walked the runway that encircled the guests, weaving in and out of the rows in concentric circles.
This was the first time Alexander McQueen held a show in London in twenty years and the first show since the pandemic began. As I started to watch, I was ecstatic to see such a diverse range of models showing different body types and unique features. The styling was reminiscent of the androgynous punk scene that is so vital to London’s culture in the twentieth century, contributing to the mix of feminine and masculine energies.
The atmospheric influence was apparent throughout the collection as models wore silhouettes, colors, and prints reflective of the unpredictable London weather. Many silhouettes consisted of traditionally masculine and feminine styles, with tailored suits paired with floating dresses. Billowing skirts and puff sleeves instantly drew the eye to the clouds above. The colors ranged from sky blue to stormy grey to midnight indigo, reminiscent of the erratic weather on the Thames. My favorite subtlety was the inclusion of a yellow dress: a sunny spot in a typically bleak season. The main materials featured throughout the show were leather, denim, and metallic embellishments. Leather complemented tulle and mesh, accented with silver studs or buckles. I found the prints to be especially poignant, featuring white clouds on a light blue background, sunset scenes, and wispy clouds against the night sky.
As for my favorite looks from the show, I loved the all-white ankle-length dress with ruched sleeves and a belted waist. It looked crisp, clean, and clearly communicated the influence from the clouds. I also adored the blush pink tulle dress with a corset top. The fabric hung off the shoulders, was cinched at the torso with an embellished corset and flared out again to a tea-length hem. My third favorite look closed the show, which featured a black cropped blazer with silver embellishments, paired with a black tulle skirt and decorative tights. The model strutted confidently, elevating the atmosphere of the show. It was the perfect way to end the show, encapsulating all the looks from the event.
Looking forward to the spring, we can expect to see many of these elements in stores. Continuing the trend from this past year, I predict many colorful pantsuit elements, including blazers, waistcoats, and tailored pants. I also anticipate a lot of leather. As a gold lover myself, I would switch out the silver metal accents, but I’m looking forward to wearing belt buckles, jewelry, and studs. I wouldn’t be surprised to see corsets on trend again, except I would love to see them paired with tulle. Cutouts also seem to be on the rise, with pieces removed from the torso and replaced with mesh.
To conclude my thoughts, I was thoroughly impressed by this show and look forward to seeing the direction McQueen takes in the future. I love the impending SS2022 trends, and I anxiously await the ready-to-wear styles in stores. This show was a breath of fresh air (pun absolutely intended), and my faith in London fashion week was restored.
Words and Visual by Caroline Tetlow.