Thom Browne delivered a closing act like no other, wrapping one of the wildest weeks in New York Fashion Week history through an immersive runway experience that showed off their fall 2025 collection with a touch of theatrical flair. The show took place in a dark space contrasted by avian motifs, including a bird cage and origami birds, that surrounded an ominous white table and chairs. Two individuals wearing matching, gray-toned cloaks and suits sat throughout the show, like fashion ornithologists observing the flock of garments as they soared down the runway.
The collection of reimagined, classic Thom Browne elements featured deconstructed houndstooth and plaid-patterned jackets, paired with exaggerated, wide-shouldered coats over form-fitting bottoms that emphasized the boldness of the garments above the waist. The collection also played beautifully with dynamic and proportionally-challenging silhouettes as well as whimsical, dog-shaped bags that added a playful contrast to the structured tailoring.
Amid these striking looks, the collection also included many simplistic, commercial-esque ensembles, such as Thom Browne’s signature gray suit, to balance out the line’s grandiosity. Browne touched on this idea after his show, when he said, “It’s a reminder to quiet the noise.” In the chaos of today, the show served as a reminder to slow down and step into the world of Thom Browne and, for a second, escape from external madness.
As a brand, Thom Browne never fails to elevate their shows to the highest high, pushing forth emotional depth and vulnerability through not only their beautifully crafted garments but also the essence of their shows. This concept was achieved in Thom Browne’s latest collection through an intriguing, symbiotic relationship between the garments and the runway design, where both elements complemented one another to create a seamless mood. With garments of exaggerated proportions and sleek business attire showcased in a dark atmosphere, the lingering, poetic tone of the runway allowed both sides of the collection to stand on their own while functioning as a cohesive whole.
However, the runway transcended its name, becoming more of a stage for Thom Browne’s models to glide around during the show. Origami birds spiraled around the center of the circular catwalk, illuminated by a single spotlight. Around it, the models moved in sync, orbiting the flock of origami–further reinforcing the show’s avian theme.
With little to no color on the runway, the responsibility of bringing color to the show fell entirely on the garments, which featured a palette of pastels and primary colors. The runway’s grayscale design served to enhance the vibrancy of the looks, ensuring a focus on them. Beyond what the runway did for the garments, the collection’s bird-centric theme remained evident throughout all levels of the show–from the set pieces to the hair styles. Models strutted out with long, colorful ostrich feathers glued to their eyelashes and origami-like details woven into their hair, embodying a sense of flight and freedom in the collection, without overdoing it.
Thom Browne’s latest show once again proved that fashion is much more than just clothing. It is storytelling, immersion, and emotional connection. As the curtains close on another unforgettable New York Fashion Week, Thom Browne will continue to soar above expectations and shape the fashion industry, reaching both designers and audiences alike.
Words By Catalina Olsen
Graphics By Aubrey Lauer