While the 2025 Paris Fashion Week unveiled various exciting shows, one that deserves way more attention has to be the McQueen Spring/Summer 2026 collection. Being a true spectacle of Seán McGirr’s, the current creative director forMcQueen, attention to detail and undeniable artistry within fashion, this show created a new refreshing, yet exciting look for the brand. This collection was a direct statement to the importance of thematic execution and playing into aesthetics while also relating storytelling to one’s original brand. It is especially crucial to note how cinema played a major role as inspiration for this collection.
One film that had a major influence on McGirr’s design for the collection was the 1973 folk horror movie, “The Wicker Man”, which tells the story of a devoutly Christian police officer who arrives on a small Scottish island in search of a missing schoolgirl. However, along with his search, he witnesses the island’s rather bizarre Pagan rituals and sexual displays. McGirr chose to take an interesting perspective on the film, choosing to focus on the women within the movie and, more specifically, their provocative energy. This undertone is evident within the film when considering the scenes with the main female character trying to seduce the cop, or with the alluring gestures made by women. Nonetheless, he integrates the style of said women in the film by, not only marking this as his first women’s only collection, but also by the revival of the bumster, one of Alexander McQueen’s most innovative looks, which is a style of trousers that are cut extremely low on the hips. This paired with the back leg zippers along with the black, ashy makeup curated an almost sinister yet romantic feeling within the looks. McGirr also chose to create a more provocative, stylized suit attire inspired directly by the policeman character within the film, which entirely elicited just a jaw-dropping all-black formal, yet attractive look that once again helped to invoke that sense of dark romanticism. This grim style was not uncommon throughout the show, either, with more all-black evening wear being delivered along with black and red transparent patterned dresses. It is simply more than impressive to see not just how McGirr is able to masterfully capture this aspect within the film, but also how it feeds back into the McQueen branding and style, which is known for their gothic and theatrical sense of beauty.
In addition to this, a great deal of looks within the show were inspired by tradition which can be seen within the various cargo-style white, green, or black skirts and shorts. This traditional expression also pours into the multiple all-white outfits that are clearly inspired from the main female character within “The Wicker Man” with sophisticated corsets, gorgeous ripped/sewn together dresses, and these beautiful flowy skirts and gowns that have an almost angelic feeling to them. These incredible outfits within the show are paired with an acoustic and synthesized soundtrack that utilizes elemental sounds to reinforce that folkloric feeling. On top of all that, the models had a stunning stage to walk with golden lighting and these maypole-like structures, which are tall wooden poles decorated with ribbons and have roots in Pagan origin.
Most notably, however, this collection mainly took part in connecting back with nature, a recurring theme within the McQueen brand. Various floral designs and prints were executed within the collection through knitted flowers covering cardigans and tops. Part of the beauty for the show, as previously mentioned, had an ashy, blackened eyeshadow look, but this was also matched with hands painted with a black or grey mud, adding to that elemental, earthly look. Two of the dresses in the show especially caught my attention through their use of shiny, glimmering tassels and feathers that depicted a glamorous look similar to that of birds. In general, this collection really seemed intertwined with organic themes and was mainly centered on “submitting to the raw power of nature.” It was utterly incredible to see how well McGirr accomplished this aesthetic to fit the brand’s style through such specific detail.
After returning multiple times to reexamine the true brilliance of this show, I have only come to love the storytelling more and more. The aesthetic was cleverly chosen and executed masterfully through the art of fashion. The themes of dark romanticism and nature were clearly evident in all the looks, along with the inspiration from “The Wicker Man” within the folkloric and provocative style of the clothing. Although this show might not have garnered as much attention as previous McQueen shows in the past, I am still very much captivated by the direction that McGirr is choosing to lead the brand, and I think Alexander McQueen would have been too. McGirr did an excellent job in creating an encapsulating atmosphere at the show that greatly played into that ornate flair he was trying to deliver. This collection was truly a testimony to the importance of thematic use. I cannot wait to see what the McQueen fashion label continues to do because Seán McGirr, you have truly won my heart.
Words by Eli Morey
Graphic by Rose Davis