Once upon a time, an extraterrestrial school took a field trip to Earth. At least, that was my first impression when the models from Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2026: “We Come in Peace” walked down the runway. Every single element screamed otherworldly, challenging both the ordinary and cosmic limits.
Throughout the collection, the duality of traditional tailoring and deconstruction was juxtaposed. The jackets, for example, were a silhouette previously unseen from the brand. Inspired by American varsity jackets, the bent-forward, round-shoulder coat contorted the body in alien-like ways. The enormous platform heels, drop waist over-the-knee skirts, and caricature-like styles also deviated from what we might think of as “classic” Thom Browne. According to the show notes, the goal of the collection was to create a uniform for all, both human and extraterrestrial.
Considering that many fashion houses have gravitated away from storytelling, I appreciated how Browne implemented narrative into the collection. The show was an immersive experience, with the story set from the very beginning when the first model appeared on the runway with an alien-like appearance, handing out cards that said they came in peace. Combined with the clothing, the music, hair, makeup, and models’ gestures all truly felt as if we had stumbled upon an alien’s class field trip to Earth.
The music, from the famed British sci-fi show “Doctor Who”, played a huge role in the experience, representing the “having fun” aspect of the collection, an important theme Browne wanted to transmit, whilst still preserving the outer space feeling. The beauty was interesting as it didn’t really explore anything that screamed otherworldly. Yes, the micro-bangs, tiny bobs, and jellyfish cuts are not something we see every day, but it is still occasionally seen; the same thing goes with makeup. For the most part, the makeup was completely natural except for fun, colored lashes. So are these beauty aspects related to the theme? I feel they are…on such a subconscious level that we often gloss over them. Over the years, we have witnessed how alienated some people can become when they don’t fit into society’s current standards of beauty, which are pushed to their limits by these trends.
Trends can either be created by top fashion designers or by the masses before being adapted by luxury houses. This show had both. Trends such as bubble skirts and varsity jackets that are trendy for mass consumers were elevated and inspired, reimagining and creating something new. However, trends were also set, or dug up once again. For example, sheerness, a trend that has resurfaced yearly for a few years now, was widely seen in runways like Givenchy, Chanel, and Thom Browne, though in a more subtle and conservative way. Bright colors were spotted throughout the runways and in the streets. One of the most notable trends was an ultra-oversized silhouette that slightly accentuates the waist, giving models this capsule-like, otherworldly silhouette, which gravitated away from the previously seen slim tailoring.
More specifically, Look 5 was the first real reveal of the jacket pattern, complete with a peplum undercoat, which was a consistent motif throughout the collection (possibly an indicator that 2010s fashion is continuing to rise). Look 7 caught my eye due to the platform heels, a new element, and something so very different from what we had seen in previous collections. Look 10 directly correlates with the theme, composed of construction and deconstruction by literally detaching the sleeves from the body of the jacket. The deconstruction by the shoulders and collar is also beautifully executed in Look 22, accentuating an unnatural hourglass-looking body. Look 46 cements the point that not everything in fashion needs to be functional when seen as an art form and outlet for self-expression.
As we’ve seen a decline in fashion as an art form and an increase in the use of runways solely as a marketing stunt, it’s refreshing to see narrative and risk-taking. I cherished seeing Thom Browne have fun and create weird and unusual clothing. Is it all functional? No. Is it something everyone will want to wear? No. But is it different, playful, and a manifestation of creating fashion for the sake of expression? Yes, and I, as a viewer who is tired of monotony, appreciate it. “We Come in Peace” demonstrated that fashion can still tell stories while also showcasing expertly tailored clothing, giving us a fascinating, new, and modern side of the brand, and showing how, through this concept of alienation, we can all come together.
Words by Ariana Sancho
Graphic by Ariana Sancho