Porcelain dolls, Barbie dolls, paper dolls, you name it. The fashion industry is obsessing over dolls right now. And I, for one, am elated. As a doll collector myself, I have always sincerely appreciated the beauty and intricacy that is a fashion doll. From the $10 Barbie you get at Walmart to the $300,000 porcelain Albert Marque, inspiration can be found in dolls no matter the context. And this has been proven time and time again on runways all over the world.
Perhaps the most glaring reason for the doll renaissance is the mind boggling popularity of the Barbie movie. The film enabled adults to start collecting dolls, dress up as them, and relish in the joys of girlhood. And once you start feeding your inner child, it can get a bit addictive. In fact, The Barbie Movie caused gross billings in the doll category to skyrocket 24%, with Barbie’s sales in particular jumping 14%. This has accounted for a shocking $125 million dollar boost for Mattel. With all of this popularity, the term “Barbie Core” emerged in 2022, with high fashion labels such as Valentino and Moschino making their hot pink mark on the trend. But as all fads go, they quickly fragment and become reimagined. And that reimaging is what we are seeing on runways today.
Let’s begin with arguably the most viral show of Spring/Summer 2024: Maison Margiela Couture at Paris Fashion Week. While “Barbie Core” embraced the pretty pink aspect of dolls, Galliano for Maison Margiela honed in on the eeriness of humans with doll-like body modifications. With corseted waists, padded hips, and porcelain skin, the models were more akin to haunted dolls than Barbies. The looks expressed undoing, conveying the twilight stricken walk after a fight, or perhaps a sexual encounter. But the aspect of the show that most fascinated audiences was the “glass skin” effect on the models faces, created by legendary makeup artist Pat McGrath. The cocktail of products, which included (but wasn’t limited to) several different peel off face masks, were painstakingly applied with an airbrush. The internet was immediately enthralled and countless recreations have occurred. Some staying true to the original 1920’s aesthetic, others going completely outside the box. And yes, McGrath is planning on releasing her own glass skin product, no face mask required.
Traveling across the world to New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs celebrated 40 years with his doll-inspired Spring/Summer 2024 collection. The set was adorned with a gigantic table and chairs, created by the late artist Robert Therrien. The staggering set pieces created the illusion of genuine paper dolls walking the Park Avenue Armory runway. While the styles themselves were quite minimalist, it was the silhouettes that stole the show. The 1960’s inspired styles had jutted out waistlines, and stiff white bodices, providing the illusion of the clothing being pasted onto the models rather than it being worn. The designs also feature exaggerated shoulders and shirt hems, further honing in on the perceived petiteness of the models. To pair with the looks, huge birds nest hair was sported with Twiggy style eyeliner and massive chunky lashes. Similarly to Margiela, this collection lacks the “Barbie Core” feel we have been familiarized with. There was none of the hyper feminine pink aspects we associate with Barbie dolls, but it would be near impossible to miss the influence of dolls in these two shows.
So it’s official, dolls are in! But what’s new? Dolls have always been a fixture of artistry for fashion designers and makeup professionals. To me, the most interesting part of this doll renaissance is seeing the way fads (a la Barbie) evolve to keep up with the trends around it. But “Barbie Core” or not, doll inspiration will always be a yes in my book.
Words by Fay Marks.
Graphic by Adriana Roe.