On January 20th, a new President and Vice President swore into office on the United States Capitol’s West Front. This was a historic moment for many reasons. Joe Biden became the 46th President, giving a unifying speech, discussing solidarity and peace between all American citizens. Kamala Harris is the first woman of Black and South Asian descent to take the Vice President’s office. The Inauguration ceremony had all its typical pomp and circumstance; speeches, songs, The Pledge of Allegiance, etc., but most of all, our 46th President’s swearing-in gave us some great fashion moments.
On the eve of the Inauguration, President Biden and Vice President Harris held a vigil at the Lincoln Memorial’s Pool to honor the Coronavirus pandemic victims. This is where the real fashion began. Kamala Harris wore a tan Pyer Moss coat with a black YSL turtleneck dress underneath. The star moment of this look was on its backside. The jacket featured a gorgeous asymmetrical seam across her shoulders, with pleats flowing down from it. These two details are fabrications we often see from Kerby Jean-Raymond’s Pyer Moss. It was a smart touch by Raymond to add signatures of his work to a pretty simple look. Was the outfit groundbreaking? No. Was it much more than I expected for Kamala? Absolutely. But this first look was a great setup for her looks to follow. Kamala’s stepdaughter, Ella Emhoff, also had her own fashion moment that evening, wearing head to toe Thom Browne. The look presented classic tailoring with a twist, in navy with red and white details, two Thom Browne staples. The highlight of this look was the shoes, a take on men’s wingtip shoes but taking on a women’s stiletto shape. The look showed that Ella was obviously in touch with fashion, as I would expect from a student at Parsons School of Design. The 22-year-old proved that fashion school is paying off.
On Inauguration Day, the fabulous fashions continued to unfurl. The first fantastic look started with Former First Lady Michelle Obama. She was wearing a plum Sergio Hudson floor-length jacket with a matching turtleneck, wide-leg pants, and gold statement belt. The look made her look more statuesque than she has ever looked before. Her hair was flowing and gorgeously curled, quite a stark contrast to the low bun and high neck dress she wore to Trump’s Inauguration 4 years prior. We then see Ella Emhoff continue her excellent fashion knowledge by wearing an embellished A-line Miu Miu coat. The plaid coat dawned with orange shoulder embellishments, which she paired with a bold white statement collar. It was quite a posh pilgrim look, and I loved every second of it. It fit her gorgeously, and it showed that Ella Emhoff could be the breakout fashionista of this administration.
Performers Jennifer Lopez and Lady Gaga outfits also stirred up some interest for their ensembles. J-Lo’s all-white Chanel look featured wide-leg pants and a houndstooth jacket. The white was a clear callback to the women’s movement of the early 1900s and Suffragettes, something we have also seen by members of the Senate and House at the 2019 State of the Union. J-Lo looked good, I wish she would have worn her iconic green Versace jungle dress, but I don’t think that it was warm enough in DC for that. Lady Gaga wore a custom Schiaparelli gown with a black long-sleeved top and a full bold red skirt, adorned with an oversized gold dove brooch, a universal symbol of peace. I think her major style inspiration for the day was most definitely Effie Trinket of The Hunger Games. Gaga served her best Capital look at the Capital. Lady Gaga may have been slightly overdressed, but it’s Gaga; what else did we expect.
The clear standout fashionista of the day was Bernie Sanders. He was wearing a basic tan parka paired with knit mittens. Sanders is clearly following new knitwear trends with his chunky knit mittens. Maybe he bought them off Depop? The cherry on top of the sundae was his stance. Crossed legs, arms folded, hunched over. Sanders exemplified how I feel 99% of the time.
We then saw our new Vice President wearing a custom striking purple dress with a matching purple overcoat by SCAD alum, Christopher John Rogers. The purple is a clear nod to Shirley Chisholm, the first Black woman to run for President. She accessorized the look with a simple pearl necklace, a reference to her sorority Alpha Kappa Alpha. The first African American Greek Lettered sorority was founded at the Vice President’s Alma Mater, Howard University, a historically black college and university. Wearing a Queer Black designer was an excellent look for the new VP. It showed the progression Harris hopes to make while serving as Vice President.
Our new President and First Lady also gave us some great looks. Joe Biden wore a Ralph Lauren suit. The American designer is a staple for many in politics because of his classic Americana aesthetic. Did he look okay? Yes. Was it the most fashionable look I have ever seen? No. First Lady Dr. Jill Biden wore a custom Markarian dress and overcoat. The powder blue look had small crystals throughout, catching the light beautifully, and a velvet-trimmed collar. The look was completed with a matching mask and matching leather gloves. It was designed by Alexandra O’Neill, who started her brand, Markarian, in 2017. The First Lady took a trick from Michelle Obama’s book by picking a young up and coming designer for her Inauguration look. Michelle Obama helped Jason Wu become a household name after her 2008 Inauguration Ball look.
This Inauguration Day’s fashions were truly astounding and unprecedented, but the real meaning behind all of these frivolous frocks is the designers. Vice President Harris deliberately chose to wear two Queer Black Americans to highlight their artistry and talent. All of whom are on the rise and have strong design aesthetics. Each choice made by the designers and deliberate and political in their own way, and I am excited to see this tango between the fashion industry and this new administration.
Words by Tommy Drennan
Graphic by Day Toscano